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Jaquet Droz Grande Second Quantieme 2013


Perpetuelle 24 May 2013, 10:15 pm CEST

Jaquet Droz Grande Second Quantieme Blue

At Baselworld 2013, Jaquet Droz (part of Swatch Group’s prestige portfolio along with Breguet, Glashutte, etc.) unveiled two new versions of its beautiful Grand Second Quantieme.  The Grand Second Quantieme was first launched in 2011, a “grand second” in stainless steel with date display (shown below).  This year’s new models — with chocolate brown or blue dials finished with vertical Geneva striping — look exquisite. Click through to read and see more


© Perpetuelle, 2013. | Serving Up New Luxury and Avant-Garde Timepieces Daily. More

FOUND: The First Vacheron Constantin 14-Day Tourbillon Available In The United States


HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories 24 May 2013, 5:15 pm CEST

Tourbillons rarely interest me.  There are some exceptions. of course - like those from these guys, these guys, and these guys.  But one of my favorite tourbillon introductions from the past few years was Vacheron Constantin's Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day tourbillon

This bad-boy was released at SIHH 2011, and just yesterday, I got the chance to see the very first one delivered to the United States up at the VC boutique on 64th and Madison in NYC.  This 42mm pink gold tourbillon has a tremendous power reserve of approximately 336 hours, thanks to four barrels mounted in coupled pairs, which all unwind at the exact same rate. 

The finishing on this tourbillon is simply superb, and while it's 42mm in size, it wears incredibly well. 

A 14 day tourbillon might not sound that impressive, but as we told you when it came out, this Vacheron has a power reserve that is about five to six times that of your average manually wound tourbillon. 

On top of that, the watch is just beautiful.  A 5n pink gold case, a lovely refined cream dial, and perfect symmetry between tourbillon aperture and power reserve display make this watch really something special, and that's just on the dial side. 

Again, this Vacheron 14-Day tourbillon is the first one available in the United States and it is currently for sale at $279,800 .  More details on the watch may be found here.

Hands-On With The Armin Strom Gravity Collection (Live Pics & Pricing)


HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories 24 May 2013, 4:22 pm CEST

Biel-based manufacture Armin Strom has enjoyed steady growth from its admittedly small, but formidable team. We've brought you a few looks along the way, and it was no surprise to see them continuing to push themselves at this year's Basel World fair. Among other things, they showed us their new ARM13 caliber which employs the use of a micro-rotor winding system. The ARM13 lives inside the brand's new Gravity collection, which builds on some of the aesthetic themes shown over the past years, meaning Armin Strom didn't shy away from making a strong impression.

Armin Strom's new Gravity collection is being offered in 4 flavors: Earth, Air, Water and, you guessed it, Fire. Each element is not only treated with its own color scheme and material set, but also features unique engravings in the three-quarter plate that correspond with the appropriate element. If you've been following Armin Strom, you'll know the company's namesake and founder is renowned for his skills with engraving and skeletonizing, so keeping this thread alive in the movement and dial structure is no surprise.

Speaking of dial structure, the Gravity collection continues to push Armin Strom's affinity for contemporary open dials. There are multiple levels opened up in the dials of the Gravity watches, beginning with an offset hour and minute ring and a subdial track for the seconds display. The crown-side section of the dial is cut away, revealing portions of the winding mechanism and going gear train underneath. The most dynamic element of the "under-dial" is the micro-rotor, which comes into view for the top half of its winding route. This show is usually reserved for viewing through an exhibition case back, but the Gravity embraces the movement dial-side to push the particular style of skeletonization that much further.

Strapping any of the Gravity watches to your wrist will not go unnoticed, as they do carry some heft. Armin Strom embraces this with a robust case slightly smaller than 44mm and a serious cut of alligator skin for a strap. It all comes together nicely however, with no piece feeling out of place. What's more, these are entirely in-house built movements, with top-notch levels of finishing, and prices start just south of $15,000.

We'll be spending more time with the Armin Strom Gravity this summer, but a good first impression has certainly been made. Keep an eye out for more from this evolving manufacture. For more info, click here.   

HODINKEE Editor Benjamin Clymer And Columnist John Mayer Named To Jury For Grand Prix D'Horlogerie Genève 2013


HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories 24 May 2013, 3:06 pm CEST

Today the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève announced its latest jury selection - and not one, but two members of the HODINKEE team have been added to the panel. HODINKEE Editor Benjamin Clymer and Columnist John Mayer (whose contributions you can read here) are both among the recent inductees. The latest 23-person list includes experts and luminaries from the fields of horology, design, architecture, and more. Our own team members aren't the only new additions, with names like Philippe Starck and Jean-Michel Wilmotte appearing as well. The chairman is Aurel Bacs, International Director of Christie's watch department.

In addition to the new jury inductions, the GPHG has also announced two completely new prizes for the 13th annual Grand Prix. The "Horological Revelation" prize will go to an outstanding achievement from a young brand and the "Revival" prize will reward the best modern take on an iconic watch. 

The ceremony will be held at the Grand Théâtre de Genève on November 15th and you can be sure we'll be covering all the action here on HODINKEE. Check out all the details here.

Yuichiro Miura, 80, Oldest Ever to Scale Everest Was Also First to Ski It!


Perpetuelle 24 May 2013, 9:26 am CEST

This past January, I wrote about the Seiko Landmaster “Miura Everest 2013″ Watch (Spring Drive) and the great adventure it was created for.  Today, 80-year old Japanese alpinist Yuichiro Miura successfully climbed Mr. Everest, making him the oldest such person ever to do so.  This along with the fact that Miura was the first man to ski down Mt. Everest, a feat he accomplished in 1970 (later documented in an Academy Award winning documentary), puts Miura forever in the ranks of the world’s greatest alpinists.

Congrats to Mr. Yuichiro Miura and also to Seiko.  Check out my January article for more on the Seiko Landmaster “Miura Everest 2013″ Watch (Spring Drive)>>>

Miura on Mt. Everest Summit, May 23, 2013

Miura Everest Summit Photo 2013

Yuichiro Miura

Seiko Prospex Landmaster Miura Everest 2013 Theme

Seiko Prospex Landmaster Miura Everest Wathcbox

 


© Perpetuelle, 2013. | Serving Up New Luxury and Avant-Garde Timepieces Daily. More

Death To Analog - New Digital Destruction, Time Is Short, Nadir & Lunaround from PROJECTS WATCHES at Watchismo


Watchismo Times - A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge designs of today 24 May 2013, 12:35 am CEST

Projects1

A Gaggle of Cool New Concept Watches from Projects

Time for some fun!

Analog cruelty defined by Projects 'Digital Destruction' watch. Quite literally busting through a traditional hand dial to expose the glowing digits below the face. Click here to view all new Projects watches at Watchismo
projects2Available in three styles, click image to see the Digital Destruction collection

Projects 'Time Is Short' Mystery X-Ray Watch

With a flick of the wrist, remind yourself that you're just flesh and bone! The first wristwatch within a wristwatch timepiece.
projects3Projects Time Is Short Watch

Projects 'Nadir' Orbiting Hands Watch

Not like anything we've seen before at Watchismo, the Nadir watch has three central facing hands floating across a blacked out dial orbiting a central 'core' of time display, truly unique! A Nadir is the deepest point on a celestial sphere directly beneath a surface position.
Projects7265sideProjects Nadir Watch

Projects 'Lunaround' Disc/Hand Watch

A simple hour hand? No, wait, it's floating... Look again, those are digits being exposed underneath the hand!
Projects7268sideProjects Lunaround Watch

Hodinkee’s Ben Clymer to sit on 2013 GPHG Jury


Perpetuelle 23 May 2013, 11:46 pm CEST

GPHG Logo

The “Oscars” of watchmaking is held every year in Geneva, an event known as the GPHG.  This event is not largely known nor followed outside of watchmaking circles, but it is a big deal for all within the industry.   Each year a “Jury” is selected to judge a number of watch entries in various categories.   I was really happy nicely surprised to see that Ben Clymer of Hodinkee has been selected to sit on the GPHG jury this year.    John Mayer (you know him as the heartthrob musician, but he is also an Hodinkee columnist) is also on the GPHG jury.

For anyone, sitting on the GPHG is a true honor, but for someone like Clymer who started out as a blogger, it is a really big deal.  It is first and foremost an affirmation that what Hodinkee is doing matters, what Hodinkee is doing is resonating across the industry.   Beyond this, it is also a sign that digital media is finally gaining respect as a legitimate media outlet in the watch world.  Although there is still ambivalence from the industry toward blogs and forums in general (and of course all the shady online grey market dealers), the general level of respect for today’s higher quality online media sites simply did not exist five years ago.

Hodinkee Logo

Although there is a huge range of quality in the online world (it’s the nature of the beast), I think that the emergence of a handful of high quality blogs within the last five or so years — curating high quality content and providing informed, independent opinions of value to watch enthusiasts and collectors — not only raised the bar on the quality of forum content (which itself still varies widely) but really legitimized digital media coverage of the watchmaking industry.  It is nice to see that those who rise to the top and given their due respect.

From one “blogger” to another — Congrats Ben, congrats Hodinkee.  Keep up the good work.


© Perpetuelle, 2013. | Serving Up New Luxury and Avant-Garde Timepieces Daily. More

Watch Spotting At Gumball 3000 In Copenhagen


Fratellowatches - Opinions on watches, watch reviews, watch stories & industry news 23 May 2013, 5:31 pm CEST

Below is an excerpt of the entire article on Fratellowatches. Click Watch Spotting At Gumball 3000 In Copenhagen to read the entire article.

Watch Spotting At Gumball 3000 In Copenhagen
Fratellowatches was present on the Gumball 3000 grid in Copenhagen last weekend. With Hublot being the official sponsor for this 15th anniversary edition it was definitely not the only brand on the wrist of the drivers. The Gumball 3000 is an annual 3,000-mile (4,800 km) road rally which takes place on public roads, with a different route around the world each year. This year the rally starts in Copenhagen and goes to Stockholm, Helsinki, St. Petersburg, Riga, Warsaw, Vienna and the finish is in Monte Carlo.

The post Watch Spotting At Gumball 3000 In Copenhagen appeared first on Fratellowatches - Opinions on watches, watch reviews, watch stories & industry news.

In-Depth: The TAG Heuer MikroPendulumS, With Two Magnetic Tourbillons And No Hairsprings (Live Pics, Video, Details, & Pricing)


HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories 23 May 2013, 4:22 pm CEST

During Basel World we gave you a first look at the new MikroPendulumS concept watch from TAG Heuer, which replaces the usual sprung balances with new magnetic pendulums. From top to bottom this watch is full of technical innovations that push the boundaries of what a mechanical watch is capable of by changing the limiting factors themselves. Here we've got a hands-on look at the MikroPendulumS, complete with detailed descriptions, a breakdown of the new technologies, and video of the MikroPendulumS in action, explained by TAG Heuer VP of Science and Engineering Guy Semon himself.

Ok, first let's get the basics out of the way. Instead of utilizing the balance system as you know it, TAG Heuer has created a new balance system called a pendulum that uses magnets in place of springs. An array of four powerful magnets exerts force on a magnetic pendulum disc and the very specific geometry and magnetic charge of the disc cause it to beat back and forth like a balance wheel. This technology was first introduced by TAG Heuer in 2010 in the Carrera Pendulum.

At this point, you might be thinking "why?" Fair question. With a typical balance there are limitations imposed by the physical nature of the hairspring. It can only beat so quickly, it is impacted by friction, gravity has adverse effects, shocks can deform the spring, and over time the spring will eventually wear out. The magnetic pendulum solves these problems handily, though it does come with its own sensitivities to heat and magnetic fields. Years of R&D went into finding the right alloys and optimal geometries to eliminate these problems, and now TAG's magnetic regulator is officially COSC-certified. 

In the MikroPendulumS there are two of these pendulum systems, both of which also feature toubillons (the world's first magnetic tourbillons no less) to neutralize the negative effects of inconsistent magnetic fields like a normal tourbillon would do for the effects of gravity.

The first pendulum, on the left side of the dial, keeps time for the watch and beats at 12Hz, with the tourbillon rotating three times per minute. This adds-up to 86,400 vibrations per hour and the power reserve is 24 hours. The second beats at a record-shattering 50 Hz (so quick that you can't visibly detect any movement) and rotates 12 times per minute with a power reserve of 60 minutes for the chronograph. The latter is the fastest tourbillon ever made and allows the chronograph to time down to 1/100th of a second, with an amazing 360,000 vibrations per hour. 

Here is a video demonstration of the MikroPendulumS with an explaination by Guy Semon, TAG Heuer VP of Science and Engineering:

The technology doesn't stop with the movement though. The 45mm case is made from an alloy of chrome and cobalt that is typically found in aviation and surgical instruments. To the eye it looks more like white gold than steel, but in reality it's harder than titanium and similarly lightweight. The pushers however are titanium and are set into the top of the case in the bullhead style. Rose gold bridges hold the two pendulum tourbillons in place at 6 o'clock and compliment the anthracite dial nicely. All in all, there are 454 components in the MikroPendulumS.

While the Carrera MikroPendulumS is intended as a concept creation, TAG Heuer also unveiled a production piece in the Carrera MikroPendulum. For this watch, the main timekeeping chain uses a balance-wheel system beating at 4Hz while the chronograph chain utilizes the same pendulum tourbillon used by the MikroPendulumS (though it has a 90-minute power reserve in this application). The case here is titanium rather than chrome and cobalt and there is a total of 371 components in the MikroPendulum.

The production MikroPendulum will be priced at 35,000 CHF and the concept MikroPendulumS will be available on a case-by-case special order basis for 400,000 CHF. These are both extremely interesting pieces that introduce new technology to the world of watchmaking. You can find more details from TAG Heuer here.

Comparison Of Two Patek Philippe Nautilus Watches – 3700/1A Versus 5711/1A


Fratellowatches - Opinions on watches, watch reviews, watch stories & industry news 23 May 2013, 12:09 pm CEST

Below is an excerpt of the entire article on Fratellowatches. Click Comparison Of Two Patek Philippe Nautilus Watches – 3700/1A Versus 5711/1A to read the entire article.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700/1A
Patek Philippe is being regarded as one of the most prestigious watch companies from Switzerland. This always has been the case. Their – often – wealthy clients are located all over the world and among them are royals and captains of industry. It is a brand with one of the best-known slogans, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.”. Whether this is true or not, does not matter, owners of a Patek Philippe watch or future buyers of a Patek Philippe watch gladly refer to this slogan to justify their expensive timepiece. In this article we compare a vintage Nautilus 3700/1A with a modern Nautilus 5711/1A.

The post Comparison Of Two Patek Philippe Nautilus Watches – 3700/1A Versus 5711/1A appeared first on Fratellowatches - Opinions on watches, watch reviews, watch stories & industry news.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Pinball for Only Watch 2013


Perpetuelle 23 May 2013, 6:43 am CEST

Christophe Claret Xtrem 1 Pinball Watch for Only Watch 2013

Christophe Claret’s unique piece for the Only Watch 2013 auction is definitely among the more eye-catching.  The “Pinball” is an evolution on the X-TREM-1 which debuted last year; new of course is the gaming theme.  We of course know that Christophe Claret likes his gambling — he has has turned a lot of heads with his casino-themed pieces (21-Blackjack, Baccara).  The X-TREM-1 Pinball is along these lines.

On the new X-Trem-1 there are now two metal cages (pinball style!) which contain the magentically maneuvered balls that mark the hours and minutes.  The rectangular “dial” of the watch also plays on the pinball theme with whimsically decorated gear wheels, and there is even a “Tilt” marker at the top of the case.  Like the original X-TREM-1, the winding and setting of the watch is done from the back of the case.

The watch has a flying tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle, mounted on a three-dimensional curved mainplate.  Check out my original article to see how it all works (including one of Claret’s dramatic though informative videos).

Christophe Claret Pinball Watch for Only Watch 2013

X for eXperimental T for Time R for Research for Engineering M for Mechanism

***

Of the 24 or so unique pieces that I have seen thus far for Only Watch 2013, this piece from Christophe Claret is certainly among the more interesting and will fetch among the highest of prices, easily into the triple digits and I’d guess upwards of $500,000 (the Only Watch unique pieces go for a premium by virtue of them being unique pieces and also for a charitable cause).  However I still believe that the titanium Patek Philippe Ref. 5004 that I showed you last week — also a very intriguing piece — is still likely to be the top seller.


© Perpetuelle, 2013. | Serving Up New Luxury and Avant-Garde Timepieces Daily. More

Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Tech Green and Tech Gold (Hands On)


Perpetuelle 22 May 2013, 6:50 pm CEST

Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Carbon Tech Cases

Just over a month ago I introduced you two Linde Werdelin’s newest pieces, the “Tech Green” and “Tech Gold”.   These new watches are part of the SpidoLite II family and feature a forged carbon case in combination with a proprietary ultra-light alloy inner case.  I think that the term “Carbon Tech” is a better and more exciting descriptor of this watch, but that’s just me.   Anyway, as I said in my initial introduction of the SpidoLite carbon tech, the materials innovation here is a perfect fit for LW’s already high-tech, modern sport watches.   My favorable impression of these watches was reinforced when I met with Linde Werdelin a few weeks ago at Baselworld.   Below are some hands on pics along with a bit of commentary and ordering information. Click through to read and see more


© Perpetuelle, 2013. | Serving Up New Luxury and Avant-Garde Timepieces Daily. More

The Road To Basel Episode 2: Inside The Atelier With The Legendary Philippe Dufour


HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories 22 May 2013, 6:04 pm CEST

On the road from Geneva to the sleepy village of Le Solliat in the Vallée de Joux, one drives past the likes of Audemars Piguet, of Patek Philippe, of Blancpain and Breguet, and of Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin.  This one road is home to the vast majority of the finest mechanical watchmakers on the planet - the epicenters of horological micro-engineering that we fawn over on the wrists of friends, at the annual trade shows, and on auction catalog covers.  And yet, when we drove down this very road last month en route to Basel World 2013, it wasn't any of these grande manufactures for which I was giddy with excitement.  No, it was a visit to a small schoolhouse turned one-man watch studio that had me grinning from ear to ear.  It was a visit to the atelier of legendary independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour, and here we document the incredible morning we spent together. 

Philippe Dufour makes his watches by hand, often using tools that date to the 1930s.  Stepping into his studio is like stepping back in time (though he will be quick to tell you how much he loves auto-CAD for design!).  This converted schoolhouse is actually the schoolhouse in which his children were educated. 

Dufour began his career in watches not by choice or because of a love of mechanics.  His school teachers told him that while he had skilled hands, he didn't have the level of understanding of math to be anything but a watchmaker. Lucky us.

Dufour's workbench, with Simplicity No. 000 on display.

Since then, his rise to the top of horology has been not meteoric like some - Philippe Dufour is not a household name - but it has been a rise built in concrete.  Dufour is considered by many to be the greatest living watchmaker, wholly unconcerned with building a brand like others who could claim similar titles.  Dufour builds watches the way he believes they should be made, by hand and each on direct commission. 

Dufour's personal Simplicity

Dufour makes between 15 and 18 watches per year.  That's it.  His run of 200 Simplicity timepieces took him 12 years, the last of which was delivered last November.  He will never make another.  He is now in the development phase of crafting a entirely new watch, and while he is coy with details, he told us it will be more complicated than the simplicity and less complicated than the his sonneire...meaning it could be anything, which he says with a wide grin.

Philippe Dufour is incredibly humble, gracious, and honest.   Unlike so many others, he has nothing to prove and nothing to gain from a political retort.  He doesn't spend a dollar on advertising or marketing. 

When you ask him a question, he gives you the answer without considering who he might offend.  Like when I asked him what he thought the best *serially produced* wristwatch available was, and he said "I'll show you."  He then went to his safe and pulled out a Lange Datograph. 

Dufour's personal A. Lange & Sohne Datograph in pink gold - he says he bought this watch because he "couldn't afford it in platinum."

This is his Datograph.  He paid for it himself, and he's unabashed in his praise for it.  He says what makes this watch so special is the amount of extra value you see in the movement architecture, the finishing, and the design.  It says a lot that one of the Vallée's greatest sons says the best chronograph in the world is German.  It's an endorsement Lange doesn't take lightly, either.  When I visited the Lange manufacture a few years back, one of their talking points was Dufour's appreciation for their work.  The same was said when I visited Seiko's high-end Credor minute repeater facility.  The same was said when I first met the Grönefeld brothers and they showed me their One Hertz.  A blessing from Philippe Dufour is, in horological terms, a blessing from above. 

I've visited a dozen watch manufactures with the most incredible watchmakers and machinery on this planet.  I've seen how AP mills its forged carbon.  I've seen how Vacheron finishes its minute repeaters. I've seen how Lange engraves their balance cocks. And none of that, or I imagine anything I will see over the remainder of my career as a watch journalist, will be as inspiring, impressive, or just downright fun, as the morning I spent with Philippe Dufour.


Editor's Note: One month ago, the day after we visited Philippe's workshop, I placed this photograph of his workbench as the cover to our Facebook page, without specifying just whose it was.  The comments were, well, have a look.   Think anybody will be changing their tune, now?

We would also like to thank Mr. Peter Chong for his contribution of his beautiful high-res images of Mr. Dufour Duality featured in the video above. View his personal site here

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The HODINKEE Pop-Up At Haberdash In Chicago


HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories 22 May 2013, 3:04 pm CEST

HODINKEE At Haberdash Chicago

We spent this past weekend in Chicago at Haberdash hosting a pop-up vintage watch store. It started with a kick-off party Friday night and continued through the beautiful spring weekend. We sold some truly amazing watches and got to chat with tons of watch guys who came from all over the Chicago area (and some from much further). It was a great weekend and you can check out some highlights here.

The watches we had on offer weren't the only cool watches in Haberdash this weekend. Guys came through the door wearing everything from funky 70s chronographs to elegant perpetual calendars, including watches from Patek Philippe, Tudor, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Nomos, Omega, Zenith, and a host of other brands. Check it all out below, and we hope to see you at the next HODINKEE Pop-Up.

Photo by Grant Legan http://www.grantlegan.com/

Photo by Grant Legan http://www.grantlegan.com/

Photo by Grant Legan http://www.grantlegan.com/

Hands-On With The New Patek Philippe 5205R Annual Calendar In Rose Gold (Live Pics & Pricing)


HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories 21 May 2013, 7:20 pm CEST

Patek Philippe 5205R

While the bulk of the excitement surrounding Basel World has to do with the introduction of entirely new designs and movements, it's important not to overlook updates to existing references. Patek Philippe added a rose gold option for the 5205 in the 5205R, which is awesome in ways completely different from the previous white gold 5205s. It's a great example of a new metal giving an existing reference a totally new feel.

First, let's do a quick re-cap of the basics of the 5205. It's an annual calendar with instantaneously jumping indicators for the day, date, and month all housed in apertures at hte top of the dial. The 24-hour indicator and moonphase are in a round subdial at 6 o'clock, and there are large batons for the hour markers. All of this is in a 40mm case with pierced lugs.

The existing white gold models (5205G) both have two-tone dials, either a rhodium and silvery gry or matte black and slate grey. For the 5205R though, both dial options are single color, either opaline white or lacquered black. While the 5205G has a real sporty, slightly casual appeal, the 5205R looks extremely elegant in both configurations. It's really a total transformation of the watch's personality, and one that definitely works.

It's also worth noting here that the 5205G also bears more than a slight resemblance to the 5208 Grand Complication. Sure, it's an annual calendar instead of a perpetual calendar, chronograph, and minute repeater, but we're just talking aesthetics here.

The 5205R is priced at $49,500 and you can find all the details here.

Book Review: Heuer Autavia Chronographs 1962-85


HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories 21 May 2013, 5:16 pm CEST

If one were to look at the world of vintage watches over the past five years, one brand that has seen a significant increase in visibility, prices, and desirability is Heuer. And one of the strongest wristwatch models made by Heuer from the 1960s to the 1980s is the Autavia (a combination of "Automobile" and "Aviation").  Autavias also represent one of the watches with the widest range of styles made by Heuer during that period, and it is for these reasons that Richard Crosthwaite and Paul Gavin recently published Heuer Autavia Chronographs 1962-85. 

Crosthwaite previously published Heuer Monaco - Design Classic and he runs both www.vintageheuerautavia.com and www.heuerpriceguide.com. Gavin took the brilliant photographs in the book and is operator of www.HeuerWorld.com. Both gentlemen are located in the UK and they are major Heuer collectors in their own right. This book is clearly a project filled with a lot of passion.

One reason why vintage Heuers have been so hot lately is the close connection Heuer had to motorsports in the 1960s and 1970s. And the Heuer watch arguably most natural for a driver to use was the Autavia, a chronograph with deeper water resistance compared to other Heuer chronographs and with an external bezel that could rotate for timing or speed recording purposes (depending on the exact bezel). You can see in this book just how many different variations there were, incorporating different color schemes, dial layouts, cases, and other details, all while maintaining a similar feel. 

Autavias were worn by a pretty impressive list of men, including Jochen Rindt, Mario Andretti, Jo Siffert, Derek Bell, Graham Hill, Clay Regazzoni, Giles Villeneuve and even Steve McQueen. Though better remembered for wearing the Monaco, McQueen was pictured wearing an Autavia on the set of Le Mans. In fact, according to Jack Heuer, the only reason Steve McQueen wore the Monaco in the movie at all was that the propmaster had requested a minimum of three watches to be on hand for filming and the Monaco was the only model Jack Heuer had three of at the time to provide. Just imagine what the price of vintage Autavias would be like if McQueen had worn one on screen instead of a Monaco?

The book showcases in gorgeous high-resolution the most desirable Autavia references ever made, along with movement particulars and dates of production. Nicely-bound and 180 pages, the book is an interesting experiment for watch books in that it is a print-on-demand book. The publisher, Blurb, produces bookstore-quality tomes but only as they are ordered. This one would look great on the coffee table of any watch aficionado and offers a comprehensive look at one of Heuer's most important watches.

To purchase your own copy and see preview pages of the book, click here.

James Bond's Breitling Top Time Geiger Counter Found At Garage Sale For £25, Could Hit £60,000 At Auction Next Month


HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories 21 May 2013, 3:11 pm CEST

Imagine finding a beaten up old Breitling at a garage sale.  You pay £25 for it, and then think "hey, this looks just like that watch James Bond wore back in 1965!".  And then you find out it is the very watch that James Bond wore back in 1965!

Well, that happened. And now Christie's sill get the chance to sell this one of a kind, movie-worn James Bond Breitling in London on June 28th.  The estimates top out at £60,000 which may sound like a lot. But, you must remember this watch is being sold at a memorabilia sale, not a watch sale.  And when this occurs, crazy stuff has been known to happen

If you don't remember this particular Bond watch, he wore it in Thunderball and used this converted chrono-cum-geiger counter to track down two nuclear bombs stolen from NATO.  The watch has been missing for decades.

(via)

Speedy Tuesday – OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonphase 3575.20


Fratellowatches - Opinions on watches, watch reviews, watch stories & industry news 21 May 2013, 2:30 pm CEST

Below is an excerpt of the entire article on Fratellowatches. Click Speedy Tuesday – OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonphase 3575.20 to read the entire article.

Speedmaster Pro Moonphase
It's Speedy Tuesday! Don't let the broad arrow hands fool you! Often confused with the Speedmaster Broad Arrow, this Moonphase model is definitely part of the "Speedmaster Professional" collection. This Speedmaster Professional Moonphase is based on the Speedmaster '57 re-edition ref. 3894.50.37 that was introduced in 1997/1998. It was in production from 1999 till 2003 and has the famous hand-wound Lemania based caliber 1866 movement. This is a modified version of the caliber 1861 movement, that can be found in the current line-up of Speedmaster Professional 'Moonwatch' timepieces.

The post Speedy Tuesday – OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonphase 3575.20 appeared first on Fratellowatches - Opinions on watches, watch reviews, watch stories & industry news.

Event: Dodane Watch Show for Baltimore-DC Area Watch Enthusiasts


Perpetuelle 20 May 2013, 10:28 pm CEST

Perpetuelle readers know that I am a fan of Dodane (see my earlier reviews here), the little known but promising watchmaker from the Besançon region of France (right by the Swiss border).   In fact, the more I see from the brand the more I like it.  For those of you in the Baltimore / Washington DC / Annapolis area, a special event is being hosted at Little Treasury Jewelers this coming Wednesday, May 22, 2013.  If you are in the area and can make the event, it would be totally worth your time.

The U.S. distributor for Dodane (and friend of Perpetuelle) Totally Worth It will also be on hand.  The event will feature, among other pieces, Dodane’s new Type 23 chronograph with yellow dial, #1 of the series.  I absolutely love their yellow dial, specifically done to increase readability by a pilot — and striking enough to wear around town.

I met with the Dodane family at Baselworld and was very impressed by their entire collection, this piece in particular (several photos below).

Dodane Event with Little Treasury Jewelers

Dodane Type 23 Black on Wrist

Dodane Type 23 Buckle

 caliber is by Dubois Depraz  and is very accurate

 Dodane Dubois Depraz Caliber

Dodane Type 23 Watches


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We're Looking For NY-Based Journalists And Photographers To Join The HODINKEE Team


HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories 20 May 2013, 9:18 pm CEST

Hey guys.  HODINKEE is growing, and quickly.  To support this growth, we're on the look-out for some talented people to join the team.  We're looking for experienced journalists and photographers in the NY area who have a knowledge of and an even deeper interest in the great watches we cover here on the site. 

If you think you'd be a good fit for HODINKEE, shoot us a note at iwannawork(at)hodinkee(dot)com.  Be sure to include your CV, writing samples (or links to writing samples), some photographic work, and what you'd be interested (and available!) to do for us.  Again, at the moment, we are looking for writers in New York only. 

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